Exploring la Route des Vins en Alsace

Views from Chateau d'Isenbourg

Such fond memories of Alsace, a tranquil countryside dotted with charming villages, Renaissance houses and a medieval chateau.  The quaint villages of Riquewihr and Eguisheim are often known as one of the most beautiful villages in France, certainly a worthwhile visit.

Alsace is a perfect assemblage of Swiss, German and French culture – featuring the best of Swiss hospitality, French haut cuisine and German quality and precision. Situated on the West bank of the Rhine River, the region of Alsace lies in between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine with its vineyards located on the eastern slopes at the foot of the Vosges.

To this day Alsace is one of my favourite wine regions for Grand Cru Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris.  The terroir in this region consists of various soil types: limestone, chalk, clay, granite, schist, gravel, loess and its local pink sandstone known as grés de Vosges.

There is little oak used in Alsatian wine production and its wines are typically elegant, dry, fruity and aromatic in nature, mainly consisting of single varietals.  All wines from this region are bottled in a traditional green flute glass, from its dry, off-dry, late harvest "Vendages Tardives" to the "Selection de Grains Nobles" vintages.  

If you are planning on exploring the Alsatian Wine Trail, make sure to book a stay at the Chateau d'Isenbourg & Spa.  Located in the town of Rouffach,  Chateau d'Isenbourg & Spa offers splendid views of the Vosges and the Rhine.  Unwind after a day of wine tasting and exploring the local region with a refreshing glass of Alsatian Riesling on the chateau's panoramic terrace and reflect upon your lovely day in the countryside.

If you fancy a more decadent experience, book a night or two at the Hotel des Berges or treat yourself to lunch or dinner at their 2-Michelin Star restaurant, L'Auberge de l'Ill.  With their mantra as offering "a simple and generous moment of happiness to start your day well.", it certainly will not disappoint.

L'Auberge de l'Ill was founded in 1952 by the Haeberlin family and continues to be family run with Chef Marc Haeberlin at the helm of the kitchen and Danielle Baumann Haeberlin running its operations.  It is idyllically located along the Ill river within the village of Illhaubern.  The moment you arrive you cannot help but feel enchanted by its tranquil surroundings.

Scenic view from Auberge de l'Ill

We had the pleasure of dining at L'Auberge de l'Ill one evening.  We started our dining experience with an apertif on L'Auberge's riverside terrace, slowly taking in the beautiful scenery around us.

We enjoyed our Amuse Bouche alfresco before settling into the main dining room for dinner just as the sun was setting in the distance.

Amuse Bouche

At L'Auberge, chef Marc Haeberlin presents three tasting menus (Traditional, Haeberlin, Vegetarian) or an a la carte menu for you to choose from.  

The First Course

Seabass Tartare
Goose foie gras, warm brioche kouglof and seasonal compote

The Mains

The rack of lamb was perfectly roasted with a crimson pink centre and a crisp exterior.  The pigeon tournedos were equally delicious.

Roasted rack of Allaiton d’Aveyron lamb, candied carrots 
Pigeon tournedos, goose liver and truffle

Although we were quite full, when the cheese trolley came around we could not resist, after all one never really says no to cheese.  We opted for a few local Alsatian cheeses along with my favourite - the rich, creamy and pungent Epoisses.  The Epoisse paired nicely with an aromatic Gewurtztraminer Grand Cru.

From the Cheese Trolley

I would highly recommend dining at L'Auberge de l'Ill if you are visiting the region to enjoy traditional Alsatian cuisine in a tranquil and beautiful setting.

There are many renowned wineries to visit along la Route des Vins, each with its own distinct production style.  The Alsatian winemakers we spoke with were incredibly hospitable compared to other wine regions we have visited.  Many kindly invited us to join them in their salons and tasting rooms, imparting much knowledge regarding the vineyards' terroir, varietals, their wine making style and techniques.  We could have easily sat there and chatted with them all day learning more about this fascinating region.

If you are looking for a few wineries to add to your itinerary, do visit Grand Vins Hugel, Marcel Deiss, Andre Blanck, and Pierre Sparr to name just a few.

Hugel
Andre Blanck

In addition to wine tastings, you must also visit to Fromagerie Antony in the southern Alsatian village of Vieux-Ferrette to view the cheese aging cellars and sample some of the world's finest cheeses.  Top chefs from around the globe source cheeses directly from Bernard Antony, one of the greatest cheese masters of our time.  Bernard started as a protegé of the late Maitre Pierre Androucet, “the Pope of Cheese” and has been an expert in finishing and aging cheeses for the past 45 years.  

We had the great pleasure of Bernard Antony curating a platter of his finest cheeses for us.  Bernard presented with Munster des Vosges, a specialty of the region, Rove des Pallières, a pale and ash goat cheese along with some of our favourite washed rind cheeses - Langres, Maroilles, Livarot.  

There is much to experience and taste along the Wine Routes of Alsace, whether it be a quick weekend getaway or a weeklong escape.  Make sure you leave yourself enough time to savour each morsel and drop of Alsatian goodness when visiting this region.

LOCATION

Chateau d'Isenbourg & Spa
9-11 rue de Pfaffenheim
68250 Rouffach

Hotel des Berges
4 rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or
68970 Illhaeusern

Auberge de l'Ill
2 rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or
68970 Illhaeusern

Fromagerie Antony
5 Rue de la Montagne
68480 Vieux-Ferrette, France


HOURS & RESERVATIONS

Chateau d'Isenbourg & Spa
Tél : 03 89 78 58 50
isenbourg@grandesetapes.fr

Hotel des Berges
Tel. : +33 3 89 71 87 87
message@hoteldesberges.com
Closed on Monday evenings and Tuesdays

Auberge de l'Ill
Tel.: +33 3 89 71 89 00
aubergedelill@aubergedelill.com
Open from Wednesday to Sunday
from 12:00 to 13:30 and from 19:00 to 21:00

Fromagerie Antony
Tel.: +33 3 89 40 42 22
To book a visit online