What a delightful lunch at Ando, a newly crowned 1-Michelin star restaurant by Chef-Founder, Agustin Balbi in Central, Hong Kong. With the current dining restrictions in place, only a lunch seating was permissible and we were very fortunate to have secured such a highly coveted table at Ando.
Chef Balbi's innovative and presentation of quality Spanish, Argentinian and Japanese ingredients and bold flavours certainly was the highlight of my week. Originally from Buenos Aires, Chef Balbi's Spanish & Argentinian heritage along with his previous experience at Michelin star restaurants in Japan (Zurriola, Cuisine[s] Michel Troisgros) and Hong Kong (Haku), mark his signature style.
First we were presented with "Partir", a showcase of raw market seafood. Tasty morsels of sweet red prawns, seabass, scallops, olive flounder and rich fatty tuna were presented in five honeycomb shaped dishes each adorned with their own accompanying seasoning. One of my favourites was the sweet red prawn in Sansho pepper jelly topped with a delicate Sansho leaf. The Sansho leaf really brought out the sweetness and flavour of the red prawns.
Our first course was "An Afternoon in Palermo" which incorporated a Japanese twist to a traditional ceviche recipe. Hamachi slices served in a leche de tigre made of baby paprika, ginger, scallions and coriander.
We then proceeded to taste one of best olive oils in the world, El Verd Del Poaig Extra Virgin Olive Oil from El Maestrat in Valencia. El Verd Del Poiag is made from over 1000 year old vines, hence the richness in flavour and aroma. What a treat.
Three types of bread were paired with three different types of house made butter, my favourites being the Bottarga and Pistachio butter.
Our second course was called "Over and Over again", which was a braised daikon topped with thin strips of Joselito Iberico Jamon, fried Nira (garlic chives), and black pepper resting atop a rich consomme.
For the main, you could choose between the "Half World" Japanese Sea Bass or an "Afternoon in the Field." I opted to experience an afternoon in the field - Kumamoto pork shoulder, kabocha, date and chimichurri. I can still remember the intoxicating aroma of this dish as it was brought to the table. The umami flavour was very pronounced with the chimichurri complementing the fatty pork very well.
Although every dish up until now was superb, the pièce de résistance was definitely "Sin Lola", a tribute to Chef Balbi's late grandmother. "Sin Lola" is an homage to a traditional Arroz Caldosa (rice in a soup broth) that his grandmother used to make for Chef during his childhood. Chef's creative interpretation consisted of a blend of slow cooked broths made from cecina (cured smoked beef), shrimp, chipirones and abalone which elevated the savoury flavours beyond compare.
Wine pairings were offered with the tasting menu. A 2017 Weingut Tement Zeitspiel 2 Sauvignon Blanc from Austria was paired with Partir and Tardes en Palermo dishes, presenting well with refreshing grassy notes. Although Austria is mainly known for their Riesling and Gruner Vetliners, this winery only makes single varietal Sauvignon Blanc, a rare find in this region.
The 2017 Parés Baltà Hisenda Miret Garnatxa from Penedes, Spain was paired with the Tardes de Campo. A wonderful fruity expression with woody tannins and power that cut through the fattiness of the Kumamoto Pork Shoulder.
Dessert was paired with “絲 ito” - a Sherry Cask Matured Whisky made from special raw Sake and unblended malt whisky. The idea of “絲 ito” is a “connectedness to everything”, and the traditional Japanese brewing techniques have created this deep and harmonious liqueur.
Joanna Yuen, Head Pastry Chef at Ando (formerly at NOBU), is the mastermind behind the innovative desserts. We were presented with Viene Antonia, a Hibiki creme caramel, Japanese flan and sea salt ice cream. Surprisingly this worked well with the Ito liqueur.
Certainly lunch at Ando was one to be remembered and to definitely be repeated. The tasting menu is often refreshed with new quality ingredients, a perfect excuse to return time and time again. In the meantime, if you are not able to score a reservation and cannot wait to try Chef Balbi's tasty creations, Ando also does delivery....yes I said delivery from Ando at Home. Enjoy!
LOCATION
1/F, Somptueux Central
52 Wellington Street, Central
Hong Kong
RESERVATIONS
Advanced booking is required, please book at least 2 months ahead to secure a table via 9161 8697 (WhatsApp) or online.
MOST RECENTLY VISITED
26 January 2021